Round Brilliant

More than fifty percent of all diamonds sold today are round brilliant. The diamond's cut naturally follows the rough diamond crystal, maximising its shine and fire. With 58 facets and a length to width ratio between 1.00 and 1.02, the round brilliant is perfectly balanced between cut, colour and clarity.

Oval

Another popular shape is the oval. The oval shape can make the diamond appear larger than a round brilliant of the same weight, thus maximising its carat weight. The oval diamond contains 58 facets and has a ratio between 1.33 and 1.66. When light passes through it, a shadow appears across the central facets. This phenomenon we call the 'bow-tie effect'.

Marquise

The shape of the marquise brilliant cut is said to resemble the hull of a little boat. That's why it is also called the 'navette' (navette is French for 'small boat'). Sometimes, marquise brilliants are cut with a French tip, replacing the large bezel facet at the point with several small facets, making the points of the diamond look more like a star.

Usually the marquise includes 58 facets, with 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion (number of pavilion facets may differ from 4 to 8) with a ratio between 1.85 and 2.10. Like the oval, the marquise can also cause the 'bow-tie effect' when light passes through it.

Pear

Resembling a combination of a round brilliant and a marquise, the pear contains a single point on one side while the other side is rounded. This shape is not as common as the other shapes, and for that reason the pear is considered more unique.

Usually the pear includes 58 facets (number of pavilion facets may differ from 4 to 8), with a ratio between 1.50 and 1.70. The pear shape can also be cut with a French tip and like the oval and the marquise, it can exhibit the 'bow-tie effect' when light passes through it.

Heart

The traditional heart-shaped diamond has top arches with equal width and height. Although the heart should be perfectly balanced, its characteristics can sometimes be adapted to personal taste.

The heart shape usually contains between 56 and 58 facets (number of pavilion facets may differ from 6 to 8), with a ratio between 0.90 and 1.10. The heart shape can also be cut with a French tip and like the oval, the marquise and the pear, it can exhibit the 'bow-tie effect' when light passes through it.

Emerald

The emerald cut is rectangular, with a broad, flat plane and flattened corners. This shape is also called a 'step cut' because of its resemblance to stairs in top view. The flatness of the stone maximises its clarity and rectangular growth. On the other hand, this results in less shine and fire than other shapes.

The emerald usually contains 57 facets, with 25 on the crown and 32 on the pavilion. Most emerald cuts have a ratio between 1.30 and 1.50 with 1.40 being the most 'perfect'. The lower the ratio, the more square, the higher the ratio, the more rectangular.

Princess

Although it has a square shape, the princess is related to the brilliant round cut. It consists of four slanting edges and has a pyramid-like construction. Because it has a high number of facets, the stone causes massive light diffusion, hiding inclusions more effectively and maximising shine.

The princess cut usually contains 57 or 76 facets with a ratio of 1.0 to 1.05.

Radiant

In addition to having a square or rectangular shape, the radiant has the characteristics of both the brilliant and the step cut. Because it has a high number of facets the stone causes massive light diffusion, hiding inclusions more effectively and maximising shine.

The radiant contains 70 facets. When square, they have a ratio between 1.00 and 1.05. When rectangular, they have a ratio between 1.05 and 1.50.